Found some good motorcycle roads up Yooper

Distance travelled: 396.1 km
Maximum speed: 126 kph
Temperature range: 16.2 - 20.8 C
NO other motorcyclers!

Our day started out at the gas station and we're greeting by this scene:

You can watch TV while you are filling up with gas.

None of us were entirely sure of what to make of a television being built into the gas pump. I'm sure you can draw your own conclusions but I think maybe those people should consider reading something. Anything.

We had our big ride up to the tip of Upper Peninsula (let's call it Yooperville)  and in the process, rode some very twisty and scenic roads.

Does this tell you anything? It was wet.

It is late in the season and at the very end of the road in Copper Harbor (I think they meant "Harbour"), they looked like they were rolling up the red carpet. We stopped outside a "general store", a euphemism for a fudge shop with other curios, and an employee emerged from inside to point out where a few things were locally. He commented that after Labor ("Labour") Day, it pretty much dies up there and businesses get shut down for the winter.  Normally, I just wait outside of these places while Nan goes in however, because we stopped outside the building, essentially in their parking lot, out of pity I went inside. It turns our there were about six employees in there all just waiting for an unsuspecting group to wander into the building and buy something. They were all pretty eager and it is mostly the same sorts of things you see at every tourist place but the one thing they had that I had not seen slesewhere was copper nuggets. This is a region with a long history of copper mining; in addition, the copper has been traded for a couple of thousand years, as evidenced by trace elements in the copper identifying the source, found in central America. Parrot feathers have been found in the Upper Peninsula region; seems like a fair trade.

This turns out to be our best day of seeing the trees changing colour. Because the change is a little late this year, there are only small pockets of red but it is very pretty nonetheless. I keep thinking to myself that I want to do a Grade 1 project of picking a couple of red maple leaves (not to be confused with Toronto Maple Leafs) and ironing them between two pieces of wax paper. I still haven't given up on the idea and maybe between now and the drive home, there will be an opportunity but even many of the red maples we have seen have been too high to reach the leaves. Bob tells us that the flipside is having red leaves much more plentiful.... but on the ground, having fallen off.

But the ride up to Copper Harbor is some of the best, funnest riding of the trip. Tight corners and undulating roads, covered in a canopy of yellowing trees. Our only regret is that the roads are not perfectly drive, which prevents us from riding the road a little harder.

Here is a picture of Nan taking a picture.

The motorcycler's favourite road sign!

And favourite colours.

Weather was a real mixed blessing this day: sun shone at times and other times, liquid sun.

This is the actual Copper Harbor.

There was certainly still evidence of past mining operations on the peninsula as well. Near the town of Hancockth, there was the old Quincy Mine with many historic building associated with the retired mine.

Hancock

Part of the old Quincy Mine

Looks almost like a scene from the 30s

The Quincy Mine, a very prolific copper mine and at times, the best producing copper mine in the U.S., operated from 1846 to 1945 and formed from the amalgamation of two companies, both of which believed they had bought the property upon which the mine was later built. Since there were no phones in those days, they got together and decided that rather than fight about it through the pony express they would merge the companies. Isn't that nice! Let's be friends!

It is like old home week

Distance travelled: 439.9 km
Maximum speed: 122 kph
Temperature range: 13.4 - 21.0
Motorcyclists who waved: 44
Jerks: 7*

*In fairness to the jerks, one pair riding BMers passed us and as they went by, one guy waved at us but the other DIDN'T. We also saw a group of 16 riding in tight formation and most waved but it was on a curve and it would have been impractical for a few of them to wave. I think they would have, if they hadn't been sissies.

As a Canadian with an inferiority complex, it is easy to think that a large number of place names here are named after Canadian place names. We went through the town of Alberta yesterday. That was after we turned onto Jasper Avenue. And then went through the Ottawa Forest. Before settling in Montreal Landing. After riding down Presque Isle Road that went through the village of Lacombe. After turning at Willian H. Smith Junction. OK, maybe not that last one, but there are many place names that are coincident with Canadian place names and every time I try to tell a local that, hey, we share a name, they ask "What's a 'Can-EEEHH-dien'?" So I say, "Canada is your neighbouring country to the north, about 50 miles from here; the world's second largest country and your biggest trading partner" and they say, "You mean Alaska?". Sigh. Still, there are many names that either reflect a Canadian connection (not likely) or were U.S. place names, perhaps with a Canadian connection but later, the Canadian place name was lifted from its U.S. predecessor (more likely). Either way, it makes us feel a little nostalgic for home.

Speaking of names, we have been riding through the "Upper Peninsula" for several days. You remember the big suspension bridge from yesterday's post? That bridge connects to the "Lower Peninsula". You will note that I have capitalized these place names, notwithstanding they may not appear by their names on your map however, I have verified the veracity of these place names by Googling them and indeed finding descriptions. We didn't travel to the Lower Peninsula but I presume they have the same kinds of quirks as up here in the Upper Peninsula. In particular, I think what has happened is that Michigonians (?) have just taken to shortening their name to "U.P." -  a sort of nickname they have given themselves. OK, but what they have since done is given themselves a nickname from their nickname: "Yoopers" which, somehow to me, just seems wrong, especially to see it in media or on large billboards driving down the highway. I have not entered into debate with any Americans on this subject.

A big part of the timing of this trip was to see some leaves changing colour; not just from green to brown like we see back home but from green to yellow, to orange, to pink, to magenta, to lavendar, to salmon, to red, to crimson, to blood, to brown and then fall off the trees and die. However, leaves are about a week later than usual here (apparently) and while we are seeing stands of trees turning yellow, that is not quite as interesting to us since we see that at home. BUT, behold! Trees are starting to turn here and I don't mean into zombies. We have the trees above starting to show their dwindling production of chlorophyll and increasingly, we are seeing deeper shades of red.

Fudgies

We had a day off the bikes, Bob and I. The five of us went over to Mackinac (sounds "makinawww"; apparently, it is something to do with the French language). We jumped on a boat early in the morning (10:30 am) and were whisked across the bay to the island, with a detour to take us under the Mackinac Suspension Bridge. (If you are watching the Spot tracking link, it will look like we are out in the middle of the lake. In fact, we are, which was the detour to the bridge.) The bridge is currently the fifth longest suspension bridge in the world and longest in the western hemisphere at over 8 km in total length. There was a "bridge walk" today with over 45,000 participants and 1300 tractors crossing the bridge and back again.

Mackinac Island is a popular tourist destination not just because of the scenery, period architecture or dozens of shops selling fudge but because there are no cars on the island. All the transportation is by horse and carriage, horseback, bicycle or walking. In the winter time when the year-round resident population is about 600, snow mobiles are allowed. For a period in the winter, snow mobiles can make it to the mainland. Even deliveries are done by horse and cart, though there is apparently some emergency vehicles on the island and I did see one truck belonging to the state out there on a roadway construction sight.

There are many old homes (over 100 years) that have been refurbished into cottage businesses or remain as homes as well as a summer residence for the governor of Michigan, a stately hotel called the Grand Hotel and about 8 of the 10 square kilometres on the island designated as parkland. As well, there is a main street that would make Banff blush, though there is not a huge variety to the shopping. It is mostly fudge and candy shops. We did a horse carriage tour of the island and the guide mentioned that there were 16 fudge stores; what I realized he must have meant was fudge companies because standing on one corner in town I could see 10 fudge shops at once. There were many more in town and others on other parts of the island.

The place was teeming with tourists on our day but I am sure it was modest compared to a sunny, summer day. Every store was trying to clear out their inventory for the end of season and prices were slashed, if you wanted to sort through the racks for your size.

We did the aforementioned tour of the island in a horse drawn carriage, which was several rows of bench seating under a canopy being pulled by two heavy horses initially and then three on the next leg. In this arrangement, two heavy horses pulling a wagon with about 16 passengers pulled the cart up the initial slope, where we were deposited at a shopping sight to wait for the next, larger wagon (holding 32) to take us on the next leg of the journey.

Both legs of the carriage ride were guided by the horse handler - young people not in university at this stage, as those people have all left the island. Our first guide was finishing her season that day; the second stage was a young man who had his lines down cold. Both of these kids were cute, and had their lines and jokes ready like a well worn coat. They both delivered their presentation in the kind of deadpan manner that lets you know they know how to work the crowd, have a little fun, maybe at the crowd's expense and ask for a tip at the end. It was fun for us, too.

It turns out that locals (which would include "summer locals") refer to the tourists as "fudgies" based on their appetite for the local fudge.

Mackinac Bridge, from the boat ride to the island.

One of our first views when we arrived at Mackinac; later, we saw much fancier carriages for the Grand Hotel, and taxis.

The main street on Mackinac Island. Shopping is primarily along this street with a modest amount elsewhere, being primarily services-type business.

An archway formed by the flood of tears of the daughter of an ancient Ojibwe Chief when he marooned her on the island for not wanting to marry the brave he had chosen for her.

Mackinac Bridge, from the island.

Some examples of the historic homes...

Even the service vehicles are horses drawn carts.

There was beer being delivered to the local pub and as well, packages from Amazon Prime. Who needs drones?

The only Lock Ness Monster was the War of 1812

With apologies to Scotland.

Wawa to St. Ignace, Michigan, 359.5 km
Maximum speed: 136 km
Temperatre range: 13.4 - 20.0 C
Motorcyclers who waved: 4
Motorcyclers who didn't wave: 0

Even though it was a shorter day than the day before, it was a big day. I also had my Lawren Harris moment, which you may recognize below.

After a truly amazing meal at Kinniwabi Pines, just south of Wawa last night - the owners hail from Trinidad but they have influences of East India and China from various relatives - we were off to our typically relaxed pace in the morning. We picked our way down the shoreline, stopping at the very beautiful Katherine Cove, which had a permanent display of an easel and folding painter's chair and a description of how the Group of Seven had spent so much time in the area. As I walked up to the display, I could see that it was an interpretive sign however, it looked just like a painter's workstation and I was surprised when I found that the chair and easel were permanent fixtures.

Nan at Katherine Bay.

An interpretive sign describing the wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald, which was immortalized in the Gordon Lightfoot song.

Not long later, we stopped in Lake Superior Provincial Park at Agawa Rock, an important Ojibwe spiritual location and sight of several ancient rock paintings. In fact, when visiting the interpretive centre before stopping at Agawa, we were told that there would be many Ojibwe First Nations people there and that we should ask permission before proceeding to visit the paintings. Indeed, there were many people camping in the parking lot and there was a sweat lodge in use. We did ask permission and, as we had been told, there would be no issue however, we were also told that there would be people fasting in the woods and may have been there for a few days and to be quiet and respectful.

Rock wedged on the way to the rock paintings.

The hike to the rock paintings was less than a half kilometre through the woods down to the water and it was fairly rugged and steep, though not overly arduous. Upon reaching the lake, I had my Lawren Harris moment, depicted below. It was really quite breathtaking and I could imagine the artist in that very spot painting the scene, though I have no knowledge if he was ever there.

My Lawren Harris moment.

The rock paintings are old, though it is not know with certainty how old but estimates are for an age of about 2200 years. They are all red coloured and of the dozen or so that are visible, a few are still quite distinct and obvious while others reflect the subtley of age. Round trip to the paintings and back was about 45 minutes, which is good, because on Native man told me to be careful as people occasionally slip off the rocks into the lake, making for a much longer trip.

The route to see the paintings. You will note that there are ropes fastened to the rock to assist people who fall into the lake to climb out.

We have another unplanned, great meal, at the The Voyageur's Lodge and Cookhouse in Batchawana Bay Provincial Park. Really good home made food, and it is with sadness that I don't have one of their blueberry tarts because they look amazing, and because the burger I ate was incredible: hand formed patty and home made bun, which I am sure could not have been out of the oven more than a couple of hours.

Our route to the U.S. is taking us through Sault Ste. Marie and over the locks that allow ships to pass from Lake Superior to Lake Huron. The elevation difference is about 20 feet; St. Mary's River, which is the natural waterway between the two lakes, runs with a fair number or rapids and would be otherwise impassable without the locks, with the possible exception of some Quebecois Voyageurs dragging their birch bark canoes over them.

The original locks were constructed on the Canadian (then British) side of the border in 1797, only to be destroyed by the Americans in the war of 1812. Though the locks were to be re-constructed on the U.S. side of St. Mary's River, a dispute between the State of Michigan and the U.S. prevented construction from commencing until 1853.

A Canadian lock.

That is Lake Superior on the right, Lake Huron on the left.

The Canadian lock administration building.

Now, there are several locks, the largest lock on the U.S. side of the river and a more modest one on the Canadian side. There are many old buildings on the Canadian side and some of considerable historical significance as well as beauty.

On the U.S. side of the river, the city bears the same name as on the north side: Sault Ste. Marie, though the spelling I saw was invariably "Soo". We stopped at the U.S. locks with the hope of getting a closer look but of course, these are heavily restricted as they form part of the U.S. border services Homeland Protection.

Bridge over St. Mary's River, the locks and the route to the U.S.

Water control on the St. Mary's River.

Maybe main street, Soo Ste. Marie.

What is wrong with this picture? It is a park for the lock, with a "no trespassing" sign. You will note the interpretive sign and walkway beyond the fence.

In order to get to our destination for the day and avoid travel on the Interstate, we drop straight down from Soo Ste Marie to Cedarville and then head over west to St. Ignace. Nonetheless, we do end up on the Interstate to finish off our day, which isn't so bad because it is late andwhile not raining, it clearly wants to rain. The sky is heavy and the air laden with moisture but no actual rain falls.

Plenty wet but no rain.

More broken dreams

Route: Shuniah to Wawa, 454.8 km
Maximum speed: 136 kph
Temperature range: 13.4-18.6 C
Motorcyclers who waved: 7
Motorcyclers who didn't wave: 3

Leaving Bob and Cathy's was entertainment in itself. I'm not going to point any fingers here, but lets just say that John, Nan and myself were all ready and loaded after a good breakfast. We got away from the house at 10:00 a.m. Now, in fairness, those who shall remain unnamed were busy getting things organized for the house (i.e. cat-) sitter and for some maintenance people to drop by. This was making sure the house was cleaned, laundry done and beds made, bathrooms tidied and dishes washed. SOMEONE does keep a tidy house, and we are all the better for it.

Bob warned us that the first day's ride is the worst, being it rides along the lake the least of all our days. There were times when we were many kilometres from the lake but not unlike the Lake of the Woods region, there were many craggy lakes to see, just not with the magesty of Lake Superior. And for Nan and me, this is virgin territory so it would be pretty hard for it not to be at least a little interesting, and it was not a disappointment.

Suspension bridge, built to Spanish hot wether specs and subsequently, re-built.

Granite, along the side of the road. We saw at least two granite quarries.

All the way from the Manitoba border, this is true Canadian Shield. The last ice age scraped all the top soil down to Michigan and when retreating 10,000 years ago, left exposed rock and minerals for Canadians to exploit. We passed two large mines of Barrick and Teck-Cominco in addition to numerous pulp plants (i.e. facilities for making oriented strand board, or OSB).

In the golden age of automobile travel, this was a popular route for families to take driving holidays. All along Hwy 17, there are countless motels and gas stations; family run operations with garages, restaurants or grocery stores however, like we saw in Alaska, there are a substantial number abandoned and in disrepair, far pasts the point where some entrepreneur might come in and take over. In many cases, the windows are all broken, drapes hanging outside and paved parking lots long since overgrown. Cars today will travel faster and much farther on a tank of gas than they did then and the result is that there is no longer the need to have that many gas stations or 10 to 15-room motels.  It is sad, really: each place represents a lifetime investment for somebody, a dream of making it big catering to all the big cars driving around the lake and now this, which is nothing. Gone. Lost forever. In the Wawa area, there were easily as many defunct places as operating places.

Nan and Bob checking out the view.

Overlooking a great beach on the lake. At times, it is very difficult to remember it is a lake and not the ocean.

That is Bob and me on the side of the road, looking at how the road is cut out of the granite.

Water has eroded away where channels of magma had seeped up through the earth during volcanic times 500 million years ago.

Young's General Store in Wawa. REALLY general.

Wasn't quite sure if this chain saw was for sale for use or just on display.

Same thing for these outboard motors. Check out the wooden handles for crank starting.

The Wawa Canatian Tire, smallest in Canada.

Wawa is Ojibwe for goose.

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